It looks and feels like one of the top ranking resorts, yet its original values - those things that made Club Med Club Med - are still at the heart of the place.

This is the most active resort, with the most entertainment in the country. You probably could have a quiet holiday in a distant water bungalow but that's not the point. Here the water sports and snorkelling equipment is free and so are the lessons. There are daily tournaments in volleyball, football, table tennis, badminton and pétanque. A tennis court should replace the basketball court at some point.

The key thing is that there isn't a "rah rah, let's go!" atmosphere. It is altogether more mature and sophisticated, where everyone knows what is going on and they can take it or leave it. For example, there are 5 types of fitness classes each day but just a handful of committed participants. Most guests, however, do participate in the daytime animation at the poolside and enjoy the showtime at the main bar in the evening, followed by dancing into the night.

It is the staff who bring the Club Med feel to the island. When not mixing with the guests or performing in front of them, they are hidden away practising for another show. Multinational, with a large contingent of Europeans, they bring a freshness and enthusiasm which is catching and distinctively Club Med. As for the guests, up to half are French, a significant number are Italian and Japanese and the remainder are a mix of Asian nationalities and British.

Both Asian and European cuisine feature at every buffet. And every buffet is spectacular. Cuisine has long been one of Club Med's strengths and as this resort moved upmarket the variety and quality of the food just moved even higher. No wonder there is an emphasis on sport and exercise!

The land rooms come in two categories, Superior (120) and Beach Villas (20). The Beach Villas are somewhat larger and have better locations but otherwise they share the same good quality furniture, interior decoration and lighting. One simply doesn't spend much time in the room on a resort such as this.

You would, however, be tempted to stay around longer in one of the 75 Lagoon Suites. These are large and elegant, with a 'visitor's room', the high-ceilinged bedroom overlooking a broad wooden deck and a beautifully designed bathroom. The best located suites have delightful views to open sea but others will look out to a nearby inhabited island.

The lagoon, not too deep and with a sandy floor, is ideal for playing in and swimming. It is too large to reach any snorkelling reef but there are two free snorkelling trips a day and free equipment provided. Diving is well established in the region and popular on the resort.

One side of the island faces into the atoll and the other side faces out to the ocean. This means the atoll facing side has a fine beach and there is difficulty retaining a beach on the ocean side. One advantage is that it is much quieter away from all the activities on 'the front', but there is an added disadvantage of a very close new island in the lagoon that is far from attractive. On the other hand, there are only a few rooms that are really affected by this.

Finally, in the midst of all the unhurried activity is a dreamy spa straight out of Bali. Enclosed in a verdant garden of tropical flowers are individual pavilions made from coconut wood columns and cotton walls. The atmosphere is hushed, incense drifts on the breeze and Balinese therapists await to ease those ... what? Well, you'll think of some excuse to keep coming back.

Club Med is now a very classy resort yet still draws on its heritage of fun, sports and showtime.