Each is doing their own thing separately on this very small island, resulting in a distinct lack of togetherness and atmosphere. It's just not one thing or the other.

It used to be a place where Germans came to holiday simply and cheaply and go diving as much as possible. The diving in the area is excellent but the long time base leader left in 2005 as the number of divers went down in relation to the increase in Italian guests.

The Italian guests are all with Azemar and enjoy their own animators, evening cabarets and film nights. They certainly have a good time but can't quite let loose and do their own thing.

One thing that everyone likes, of course, is the beach and Bathala is fortunate in having a very good one around almost the whole island. And with almost all the rooms having great views out to the beach and the lagoon, this is an ideal place for lounging on your veranda in the shade and then taking a few steps out for sunbathing.

A few more steps through the lagoon and guests can enjoy some of the best house reef snorkelling to be had on a resort. Being on the edge of the atoll, the reef is visited by or is home to a host of schooling fish, turtles, tunas, eagle rays, napoleon wrasses and even, I am told, hammerhead sharks.

For those who dive, the rewards are big. The two nearby highlights are the Protected Marine Areas of Maaya Thila, which has been described as "the white tip reef shark capital of the Maldives", and Fish Head, described as "the grey reef shark capital of the Maldives". The latter has also been adjudged one of the ten best dive sites in the world!

Although this could no longer be described as a dive island, the quiet atmosphere, early nights and lack of requests for excursions and entertainments still persist. On the other hand, the Italian guests are organised by their own animators for excursions, fishing and evening entertainments in a separate building (formerly the reception).

In a similar sort of way, the restaurant has plenty of space for tables for two, which the Germans prefer, but the Italians enjoy long tables and large groups at dinner time. One evening buffet is the 'Italian night', while at each of the other, decent but not inspiring, buffets there is a 'pasta corner'.

The 46 rooms are, like the resort as a whole, simple and straightforward. They are clean, comfortable and air conditioned but don't include any extras, such as a hair dryer or even a telephone. Calls can be made at the reception. Most of the rooms have excellent locations on the beach but several are tucked behind and don't have views.

In truth, it appears that reinvestment and maintenance have not been a priority over the last number of years and there's no sense of enthusiasm about the island coming from the management. It is not the cheap gem of a place it used to be but the beach and the snorkelling are still very rewarding.
 

Review updated October 29