A narrow sandy path leads from the top of the jetty right through the middle of the island. The rooms and beach are on either side. There are no concrete paths, no swimming pool, no air conditioning. It is a place where well-off French (80%) come to switch off from hectic Europe and live a simpler life for a while.

The resort is something of a sophisticated club where most of the facilities and activities are included, where people make acquaintances around the mixed dinner tables and enjoy evenings of light entertainment together, organised by the big, cheerful, informal Baba.

Everyone is on full board and the meals, in a thatched overwater restaurant, are as good as you would expect, with particularly impressive salads and fruits. For lunch there is always the option of a barbecue on the neighbouring desert island, to which you wade out, canoe or sail.

There are in fact two desert islands in the lagoon for the guests' pleasure. The second is an even more secluded 'bird island'. To reach them, or just for recreation, all the water sports are free of charge. Lessons too are freely given by a notably friendly staff. Waterskiing happens twice a day from a pontoon in the deeper water.

The lagoon is too big and shallow to be ideal but natural swimming pools have been created off both sides of the island. The reef is inaccessible from the beach but two free snorkel trips a day are included. Indeed all the excursions are included in the price of your holiday.

The most popular excursion, unsurprisingly, is the 'bivouac', where 2 to 4 people spend a full day cruising around the atoll to the south, visiting inhabited and uninhabited islands and then sleeping on deck under the stars. The other excursions are of the usual variety though they do also offer serious big game fishing (for which you pay serious big money).

The beach that looks into the lagoon, the sunset side, is finer than the other side, which is augmented by pumped sand and has a low lagoon wall. But the view to the open sea takes in the two beautiful islets. On such a narrow island, there is little to choose in terms of location, especially since every room has its own private setting of a beach and view to water.

Each of the 24 L-shaped cottages contains 2 rooms, featuring a compact modern bathroom, a small but attractive bedroom and a curved veranda with low chairs and loungers. On a couple of nearby trees hangs your hammock. Rustic elegance is the style and philosophy, right down to the fan but no air conditioning, and hot water in the shower but not the basin.

Echoes of the South Pacific are evident in the beautifully designed bar and games building, with its high thatched roof that slopes sharply down and reaches low to the ground around its open sides. Right in the middle of the island (and next to the similarly designed new boutique) this place becomes the focus around sunset when guests gather to watch the daily spectacle accompanied by the strains of Beethoven and Mozart. After dinner the place fills up again for fun, games and camaraderie.

The final key to Rihiveli is the attitude of the staff. It is always friendly and informal yet helpful and efficient too. The staff create an inclusive, family atmosphere. Tellingly, a considerable number of them, both Maldivian and European, have been with the resort for many, many years. Similarly, a good number of Rihiveli guests have been coming back for many, many years.